Maria asks…
Doing a project for car parts ( drum & disc brakes ) can anyone help me?
The questions that I need answers to are
1. How much is it to replace it?
2. Can you replace it yourself?
3. Can your car run without it?
I know that the brakes replacement prices vary on different vehicles but like I need like an average price.
admin answers:
1. Depends on the car. Generally brake pads cost anywhere from $20 to $50/$60.
2. Yes, you can replace them yourself.
3. Your car will run without it, yes. As far as driving the car.. It’s not a good idea.
Donna asks…
Suzuki Katana 600 – Disc brake/pad issue.. Engine Compression issue.. any help?? 
?
Hi all, through the summarized title, I hope I put the scenario across a bit, however, I’ll explain it further. I have a Suzuki Katana 600 (GSX-F 600) of make 2000. I’m looking for exact specifications, and even part numbers, and more specifically a place to buy parts for it.. with shipping made available to my place (New Delhi, India).
Yesterday only, I discovered that the rear brakes are absolutely finished since I was facing minor hindrance while braking the rear.. and to add to the worse, since I’d ran it a few days like that the disc seems to have worn out a lot as well..
Now, I’m majorly concerned about the safety and hence, was thinking of getting a complete replacement done.. So, the question is whether to just put in new brake pads, or to get the whole disc replaced too..?
Someone told me that SBKs have some “performance discs” so if it’s not extremely worn out, just replacing the disc pads should suffice.. but again, it’s the “life-saving” mechanism we’re talking about here!!
So, any help would be appreciated in getting me out of this predicament..
Also, there’s a “compression” issue that I’m facing here, due to which the bike kinda cuts off while near the rpm range of 3-4k, but crossing 4k it goes like a turbo engine.. thrusting the power out smoothly.. if i rev the engine at idle as well, even then it would cut off a bit around the same.. but with choke on for a while (like a do in winter mornings) it runs smooth.. so lemme know if u can figure something out of this ?
And if it is that compression issue, how does one go about fixing this ?
Thanks much! (in advance)
Regards,
(n00b SBK rider)
J.
admin answers:
As far as the brake disc issue, somewhere on the disc it should say something like “Min thickness 6MM”. I don’t know what the minimum thickness for your bike’s discs are, so don’t use my 6mm figure. Find someone with a micrometer or vernier caliper and they will be able to measure the thickness of the disc. If it isn’t worn too thin, then just replace the pads and go. Sintered metal pads come stock on many bikes and while very effective when wet, they do wear the disc more than organic pads do.
As far as the other problem goes, it running smooth with a bit of choke says it’s a carburation problem and not something else. If your bike still has carburetors, you will have a pilot jet screw located on the side of the carb at the same level as the inlet and outlet of the carb. The screw will likely be slanted upward a bit. While most carb bodies are pot metal, the screw will be brass or aluminum. If India is as fanatical about emissions as the US is, there may be a plastic cap or plug over it to keep people from messing with it.
Pop or pry the cap off and with a screwdriver, twist the screw in (clockwise) until it seats LIGHTLY. Count the number of turns as you screw it in. Most pilot screws regulate fuel, but a few Mikunis control air instead. For example, if it took 1 1/2 turns to screw the pilot screw in, then back it out 2 turns. Do this on all four carbs in the same manner and see how it runs. If it runs better but still hesitates a bit, back the screws out another 1/4 or 1/2 turn and do this until it runs more satisfactory. If it runs worse when you back the screws out, then screw them in a half a turn at a time and see it that helps.
The pilot (or idle) jets control most of the fuel delivered at throttle opening from idle to about 1/4 throttle opening. At larger throttle openings or higher rpms, the adjustments you made aren’t going to significantly affect carburation, so don’t worry about it.
Daniel asks…
Brakes squeak after replacement and still doing it a month later.?
I recently got front brakes and discs replaced and my rear break shoes replaced a month ago. Right after the replacement they squeaked only when going slow. They still do it a month later. It is a high pitched screeching squeal that changes pitch in an even interval as the wheel rotates.
Is this normal? What could be the problem?
admin answers:
An occasional brake noise can be caused by many different things.A constant screeching noise would suggest something rubbing on the disc.Maybe a spring came loose or a bent dust cover on some cars causes this .Jack up the car one tire at a time and spin it by hand to find where the noise is coming from.front ,back ,left or right.Then you can determine what the problem is..Hope this helps
Nancy asks…
front brake replacement on a 1998 camry (4-cyl)?
how do i replace front discs (rotors) and pads on a 1998 toyota camry (4-cyl)…step by step instructions please
admin answers:
I just did it on my 1994 van for first time, so can’t be too much different.
Open hood, open brake fluid caps
lift one side of front up, remove tire,
use a screwdriver or pry bar to move pads away from rotor (makes it easier to put new ones on)
on back of calipers, there were 2 bolts, same size, remove
lift caliper over and off rotor, (may need to remove 1 pad)
remove rotor (may be frozen, may have to loosen with a hammer
replace rotor
replace pads
replace bolts
replace tire
due over again on other side
Once done, do not drive off in car, pump brakes until pressure builds Test Test test to make sure you have brakes (No need to bleed)
tighten brake fluid caps
Enjoy saving about $125
William asks…
Brake pad replacement?
I’m replacing my front (disk) pads tomorrow. I’ve done disk pads before, but not drum pads. The back tires have drums. How much of a difference is it? Are drum pads much more complicated? I’ve got a 94 Camry, if that helps.
admin answers:
Yes there more complicated as there are springs involved and self adjusters, you can do it if you put your mind to it if your somewhat mechanically inclined just take the shoes off 1 side of the car and leave the other side intact as then you can use the other side as a reference to look at if you need to know how all the hardware goes back on, you will need a brake adjusting tool also to set the brakes up by using the gear wheel after you get the shoes back all together and the drum put back on, you will want to turn the gear wheel from the backside of the axle through a rubber grommet that comes out that you stick the tool in and turn the gear wheel upward to set the brakes up, turn the drum as you are turning the gear and when you hear the pads dragging on the drum a little the brake is set, do this on both rear wheels and try to get them set up evenly with each other.
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